Photo: Claire LowerEating trash with ClaireEating trash with ClaireThe series in which Claire Lower convinces you to turn your kitchen waste into something edible and tasty
We’re nearing the end of the citrus season and some of my clementines, oranges, and hybrid beauties are starting to taste a little lackluster. Sure, I can still get a cheap five pound bag of clementines, but their quality deteriorated noticeably towards the end of winter. Some of the small citrus fruits are light and juicy, others are too hard, too dry, or just not very fragrant. Obviously, this is a very disappointing situation to bite into. However, if you want to toss the remaining subpar segments in the compost, pause – collect yourself – and toss them into a baking dish instead.
Frying mild, watery products gives it flavor. This applies to Out of season tomatoesand it applies to clementines out of season. By shining citrus fruit segments in the oven, the existing aromas are concentrated and new aromas are added by browning. The fruits get a little candied, a little cheeky and much more nutritious.
You don’t really need a prescription, although you can certainly find a few if you do a quick search. Ruth Reichl roasts her clementines in a pan, but I prefer the slower oven approach. All you have to do is separate the segments, peel off the white, thread-like pieces, and toss with just enough olive oil to put in an oven-safe bowl. You can also add 1/4-1 / 2 teaspoons of honey or maple syrup per whole fruit for extra sweetness, some chili flakes for the heat, or some herbs for complexity. Sprinkle everything with sea salt, then place in a 400 ℉ oven for 35-45 minutes until the fruit is bubbling and browning around the edges.
Let cool, then pour in yoghurt, over ricotta toast or on a salad. Roasted citrus fruits are also great as an addition to a cheese platter or as a fine counterpoint to a platter of salty, grilled, or braised meat – but don’t be surprised if you eat them like candy.
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